When did you decide to become a chef?
During my junior and senior years in college. The culture of my family was that you went to college — that was just your foundation. I studied French literature in college and it made sense to go from French literature to French food, because the whole study is steeped in culture and the culture is steeped in food. Also, my family was completely obsessed with food. We traveled a lot, almost just to eat. One of the best ways of discovering a culture is to discover the food. In college, out of necessity, I learned how to cook. My sister had gone to France for language classes, and I went there, too, but to cooking school.

What was your first job in the industry?
My first job was at Bouley in New York City, where I made canapes [tiny appetizers]. It was a great first job because there was actual technique involved in making them. I wanted to work at a French restaurant and I just started applying. I applied at a restaurant called Le Bernardin because a friend of mine knew the owner there. They didn’t have any openings, but the chef knew that Bouley was looking for somebody.

Did you have a mentor?
I never had a mentor. The Chanterelle owners helped us when my partner and I opened Annisa, because it’s similar in size to our restaurant.

Describe a typical workday.
There is no typical day, which is good because I don’t thrive on complete routine. I come in and answer phone calls for a while. Then I do my specials. I like to do creative work, like make canapes. At 4:30 p.m., I cook the staff their meal. At 5:30 p.m., I set up the specials for the waiters to try. Then I go through service, I help out on line preparing dishes and make the specials and the tasting menus. At night, I do bills and call in my orders.

What is the most rewarding part of being a chef?
I love to eat and go out to dinner and travel and all of that stuff kind of comes with the job. I enjoy making my customers happy and knowing them is really wonderful. When my staff is happy, that’s really wonderful, like when they like the staff meal. And the accolades are rewarding.

What is your favorite thing to cook?
I don’t have a favorite thing to cook. I like to cook all sorts of stuff. I’m not into routine, so I like to change.

What qualities do you look for when you hire employees?
Their spirits. I actually look for someone who wants to work here and is really hungry for the job. I can pretty much teach you how to cook. A lot of people who apply are overqualified and won’t stay long. If they don’t have too much experience but are enthusiastic, it’s better for everyone.

What advice would you give aspiring chefs?
Never settle. Take risks. Shoot for the [stars].

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